Fix Toyota Tacoma Overhead Temperature & Compass Display

If you have a Toyota Tacoma with an overhead compass and temperature display that is not working, it is most likely do to a bad soldering joint on one, or possibly both of the 510 resistors on the main circuit board. It is a relatively easy fix if you are comfortable with a soldering iron and have about 10-20 minutes.  

This is what the compass and temperature gauge should look like when fixed. To remove the overhead panel, drop the sunglass holder and remove the screw on the top of the panel. The front should only be held up by clips.   

Once the overhead panel has been removed and disconnected, remove the three screws holding the display on to the overhead panel. The tinted black cover can then be removed by releasing the clips holding it into place. You should then see the main circuit board. 

If you look closely you should be able to see the two 510 resistors.

If you take a very small pic tool or needle, and apply a little pressure to the edges of the resistors you should notice they will start to lift off the circuit board. So what you want to do is re-solder these contact points. You will need to use a very small soldering tip and be careful not to use an excessive amount of solder. I've found that silver bearing "lead free" solder is a bit trickier to work with, so if you have any lead based solder laying around you may want to use it for this repair. If you have no way of getting your hands on a soldering iron and solder, you could try using a circuit writer pen.

Hope this helps!

Jeremy @ Car Audio Tips    

Orion Car Audio Sub Repair.

In most cases when a speaker isn't working properly you would think the speaker needs to be replaced. However that's not always the case, most the time you can actually repair the speaker for a significant amount cheaper. Don't be afraid to investigate the problem! This particular sub froze up after the owner hit a big bump while driving his car.

I first separated the rubber "surround" from the "basket"

I then separated the "spider" from the "basket".

 Next I removed the bolts holding the "terminals" to the "basket".

 After that the "cone" "spider" and "voice coil" was able to be pulled free.

 Revealing the problem! The "pole" is pinched against the "top plate" not allowing the proper movement of the "voice coil"

After taking a closer look I noticed the "magnet" had actually broken free from the "top plate" all I needed to do was glue them back together! In order to get the "pole" positioned dead center I used thin wooden shims. I first placed the wooden shims between the "pole" and the "magnet", after applying a thin layer of JB Weld I then slowly lowered the "basket" that still had the "top plate" attached to it onto the "magnet". Be very careful when disassembling and reassembling the speaker, in most cases they use very strong magnets and anything caught between them will be damaged! Including fingers. I set a wight on top of the basket and waited for the glue to fully set. Once that was done, I glued the " spider and rubber "surround" back into place and reconnected the "terminals" to the "basket". Done and done! This repair cost $5 in materials, replacing the sub would have ran about $200. Not bad! Any questions let me know, if you need speaker repair parts  or the glue check out this sight.
Speaker Repair

-Jeremy's Car Audio Tips

Classic Ford Map Light Repair.

If you have a classic Ford that has one of these "map lights" that is not working. Here is the common fix. First take a digital multi meter and make sure you have 12v at the main power wire under the map light. Once you confirm the power wire is ok and the actual light bulb is good, you can move on to this step. 

this little pin switch is most likely the problem

you must first remove the plastic cover by cutting the small plastic welded points

once you carefully remove the plastic cover, be carful not to lose the spring that holds the metal conection ring in place 

you now need to clean the contacts and the copper connection ring with a wire brush, once it's free of corrosion resemble reversing the order used to dissemble 

 you will now need to find a way to keep that plastic cover in its original place, I used plastic welder glue. Super glue or a good strong quick drying glue should work just fine

And that's it!! All done, I actually really like these map lights, I wish I had one in my truck :)

-Jeremy's Car Audio Tips
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